A couple of years ago, however, they could expect to pay at least twice as much for a composite deck than they would for a wood deck. If lumber continues its upward trend in price, the gap in price between a wood deck and its composite equivalent could narrow even more. Bearing in mind that composite decking lasts longer than wood and requires very little upkeep, it may be worth the additional upfront investment. Disclosure: BobVila.
You agree that BobVila. All rights reserved. Expert advice from Bob Vila, the most trusted name in home improvement, home remodeling, home repair, and DIY. Choosing the right contractor is an important first step in the deck planning process. You should get at least three written estimates from contractors. Choosing a local contractor is best because they're easier to contact if problems arise with the work in the future, and they're more likely to be familiar with building codes in your area.
Be sure to check their references and examples of their past work to make sure they'll provide quality workmanship and customer service. Finally, check to make sure the contractor is insured and bonded by asking for a certificate of insurance. You can verify the coverage and confirm that the policy is still in effect by contacting the insurance company directly. When planning for a new deck, remember to balance its cost with the added value a deck gives to your home. Not only can a new deck provide additional living space, but it can also increase your home's value.
According to Remodeling magazine's Cost vs. Because home buyers are willing to pay top dollar to own a deck. According to the National Association of Realtors' Remodeling Impact Report , a new wood deck ranks fifth among the top 13 outdoor features that appeal to homebuyers. The same study also reports that homeowners experience increased happiness after their new deck is completed.
When considering your deck-building costs, you should factor in that your property tax bill may increase once the project is complete. It weighs a ton, stinks to high heaven for weeks, even after tiling. It's like we're still in the 80s. Regarding the roof, I got a quote and have them scheduled, but the work isn't done yet. We'll see what kind of a job they do, but they had good references and were responsive. I don't want to name them until I've seen their work.
In any case, I needed a company that didn't just run away and ignore me, then expected me to call them times to follow up, and they weren't scared by the fact that I'm also replacing a skylight at the same time, and I'm in a hurry to replace a leaking roof before the "rainy season" starts. Sorry for the thread hijack, guys!! Don't be too hard on tradespeople for shunning the new hotness.
The chances of having been burned by such approaches unity if you've been around long enough. Burned by polybutylene, cpvc while much cheaper than copper still needs to be cut and fitted - a time hog, I did finally breakdown and do a job a couple years ago with PEX, almost dreamlike and will be my goto solution barring any show stoppers arising.
Particle board and H 2 O in any state. Lead, mercury, asbestos, CCA, benzene, formaldehyde, pesticides And sometimes it's just the local code, whether it's vested interests or some idiot 40 years ago got a bug up their ass and decreed all plumbing must be copper kind of thing. For decking, look into fiberglass.
Molded and pultruded FRP fiberglass reinforced plastic are super durable and used in the harshest environments fishing boats, refineries, chemical plants, etc. There's gaps for drainage, and UV is pretty much 'solved' in fiberglass, as long as you don't go super cheap. The chinese manufactured stuff has been known to have 'additives' like horsehair and sawdust. My company has deployed FRP that is still like new 30 years later. It's not cheap, but it is stronger than Trex or the equivalent, so you can widen joist spacing to 24"".
KallDrexx wrote: Tegid wrote: You probably aren't even factoring in the posts and beams either. IMO skip the nails and use screws. If you do go with screws I can't recommend highly enough getting an impact driver for them. I also suggest joist hangers at least along the ledger where you can't get end screws , and lag bolts for connecting framing to posts.
Are you planning on putting your posts in the concrete footers? I would consider using a post base that sits in the concrete and then lag bolting the post to the base. This will keep the post from rotating in the future when it shrinks. Last couple decks I have built I used 2x6's for the decking as that allows for less framing since the decking is structural. Here are some pictures of the last deck I built.
Note: some of the wood was salvaged. Goofazoid wrote: [ IMO skip the nails and use screws. That's a purty deck you got there! Screws definitely make more sense for sure, and yeah I had never known about an impact drill until I was attempting to drill screw holes into my concrete walls to board up my house for the last hurricane and I asked my neighbor how he did a whole house in the time I got 3 up lol. Bear in mind that many decking alternatives still typically use wood for framing.
Consumer Reports has 22 varieties of decking currently in testing, with full results available in the coming weeks. CR members can access our current decking ratings for partial test results, or use our decking buying guide for in-depth information about the different types of decking. The Background. More on Decking and Outdoor Living. Build a Backyard Oasis. Paul Hope As a classically trained chef and an enthusiastic DIYer, I've always valued having the best tool for a job—whether the task at hand is dicing onions for mirepoix or hanging drywall.
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