This board is attached to the case back directly with only two screws, though the four external screws also hold it in place. The front of the board is where the majority of components are attached. The back contains traces, the ribbon connector, and a copper pad. The copper pad lines up with the chips on the front, and probably acts as heat sink. This is also where On my PCB, there is also a single fingerprint on the copper, probably from the person soldering the final parts on the board.
When mounted, the board has a good air gap between the chips and the back of the cartridge slot. There is no heat sink directly on the chips, but the air gap paired with a metal plate attached to the cartridge slot on the case help dissipate heat and give the case a bit more strength.
One of the first thing I noticed with this board was the how it smells like an old PCB, similar to an old Commodore or Atari It looks as if most components on the board were attached using automated assembly lines, but some look like they were soldered by hand, due to some solder flux remaining on the board:.
Closeup of main chips. It adopts the instruction syntax from the Zilog, but much of the instruction set from the When writing data to the screen, the DMG will access this memory and send it to the screen, with the data routing back through the DMG chip to the screen. As it reads and sends pixel data, the DMG will also manage the screen itself, including clock signal, horizontal sync and vertical sync.
It is the working RAM for use by the game. The cartridge slot is connected to many of the same pins as the SRAM. The DMG choosing which device to operate on by setting either the write or read pin for the device. The audio amp manages the audio output. It is connected to the DMG chip by two lines, carrying the left and right audio.
Volume knob is on other side of board, and is connected to the same two audio lines. This means that the volume knob adjusts the volume before it enters the audio amp chip.
To read the buttons, the DMG will first set one of the output pins high and read each of the input pins. The external link port is a 6 pin port mounted to the right of the DMG. The first amd last pins are power and ground, while the remaining 4 consist of 2 output, 1 input, and 1 unused. The are wired almost directly to the DMG, with only a resistor in the way.
Pin 4 is not used. Pin 5 is the clock signal, and is able to both send and receive the signal, depending on if the Gameboy is the master of the connected systems. One thing that caught my eye on the PCB was a set of 6 unused, soldered over holes that looked almost like test points. The are located at the top of the board, directly above the left side of the DMG processor.
The other 3 are connected to both the cpu and the screen ribbon connector port. I thought it might be like the external link port, but the Data1 and Data0 pins are outputs only; the external link port also has 6 pins, but it has dedicated input and output lines.
DC converter board front. DC converter board back. This power board attaches to the logic board via 4 wires, 1 read and 3 green. Audio jack PCB front. Audio jack PCB back. This board is attached directly to the case with two screws. It is a very simple board, only containing 3 inductors, 2 capacitors, and the audio jack. It provides stereo sound take that, Gameboy SP!
It acts as a breakout board, all the heavy lifting is done on the logic board through the audio amp. The components on it are there to regulate the output and protect the logic board from damage, in case someone connects a headphone jack to some charge.
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Solder the two wires in my case blue [voltage] and black [ground] as shown. When you turn on your gameboy, you should be treated with a new backlit display! I also used this opportunity to replace the front cover lens with a new, less scratched one. Finally, I replaced the buttons, just to be fancy. They pop right out. The front lens was originally tacked on with a bit of glue, and can be pried off with a sharp knife inserted underneath one of the edges. My new lens came with an adhesive back that just stuck right on.
I hope you found this helpful — thanks for reading! Awesome tutorial. Fixed mine following step by step. I was a little bit worried my soldier iron was too hot so I set it up not too hot but it seems that the kapton connector is really heat resistant so I switched again to hot soldier iron temperature and it was done. I had to repeat process couple of times, I noticed it fixes also if you almost do not touch with solder iron the kapton film as the heat "passes" to the connector.
Just finished doing mine as the backlight came today! Thanks for the great tutorial, but now im having trouble with my new screen protector thing on case its too reflective, is there anywhere i can get non reflective ones or anti reflective film to put over it? Question: My game boy starts up but it won't go any farther than the Nintendo logo and instead of the logo is just a black rectangle.
Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. Any ideas to how to get the backlight to work on an older Gameboy DS? My son got one at a rummage sale and I haven't been able to get the light to work. Appreciate any help anyone can give me. Will need to bookmark your instructable for future reference -- still have 2 working Gameboy colors.
Not so often anymore can you crack something open and see so many throughhole components :P that actually only really applies to consumer electronics, there are a decent number of power supplies with throughhole stuff. Very nice mate! Random Question: do you reckon a coloured backlight can be added to my old GameBoy Pocket just as easy? Mt directional pad is functional but the right direction is a bit mushy Do you know anything about replacing the mechanism that serves as spring inside for the direction pad?
The mechanism is much like the one in your TV remote. There's a silicone membrane with conductive pads underneath each of the buttons.
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